Hi everyone!

I'm an amateur photographer and have always been intrigued by the black and white photos that were not only very high contrast, but also super grainy. The photos were almost pixalated the texture was so extreme and evident. I'd like to shoot in this way but havn't had much luck yet. Do I need a super fast film(1000 ASA and up) or is this a manipulation in processing. I don't develop my own photos, and this might be part of the problem..or solution I guess. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

-- Michael Ella (klang@interlog.com), November 20, 1997

Answers

Try shooting Kodak TMax 3200. If they still make it(don't use much Kodak) try their Recording film. There is probably someone on this list who shoots that way & will have specific suggestions. But, if you want controllable & repeatable results you are going to have to work with a good custom lab, work with a friend with a lab or do your own. But one of the two above films should help. An alternative is to shoot TMax 400, process in Rodinal for larger grain and possible in processing go from your normal temperature to a dip in 100 degree rinse water followed by a dip in 40 degree ice water. This will reticulate the emulsion. It will give you effects you may or may not like, but will certainly look lie a super grainy image.

-- Dan Smith (shooter@brigham.net), November 20, 1997.

You might also try the "older" films like HP5+ and Tri-X, which are much grainier than the T-Max emulsions.

Even then, you won't see much grain with print sizes smaller than 10x8 inches.

-- Alan Gibson (gibson.al@mail.dec.com), November 20, 1997.

grain

I suggest you use a film such as tri-x. Give about a half stop extra exposure to the negative and about a stop additional development in a high energy developer such as Kodak HC 110 or Agfas Rodinal. I have had very good results with this method. But as Alan has stated, you will have to go to at least 11x14 to experience the results.

-- jim megargee (mvjim@interport.net), November 20, 1997.

texture

Try the Ilford Universal 400 , They claim that it is an "old" emulsion type film. Match this with a high energy developer such as rodinal at 1:25. Underexpose slightly (1/3 stop) and over develop about one full stop. good luck.

-- jim megargee (mvjim@interport.net), December 07, 1997.

I was looking through a collection of BW photos by a photographer whose name escapes me right now. They were mostly of old industrial sites in Britain and many were quite striking. There were a few that really stood out because of the massive amount grain in the image and they really worked with the subject matter. The photographer gave some technical data for each image in an appendix and the grain was added during printing by placing a clear but finely textured plastic overlay on the paper while exposing it. There are also ones that simulate cracking and screens and if you contact a custom printer they might be able to help you out.

-- Andy Laycock (aglay@interchange.ubc.ca), December 09, 1997.

Instead of placing somthing over the paper, sandwich another negative in the inlarger. I use popcorn (taken at my local theature with permission from the owner), stuko, and any other textured surface. Braket the image by a few fstops. I use theese continaully. They bring life to ordinary photographs.

-- John J. Frederick (famine@netshel.net), December 11, 1997.

Try Kodak HIE (infrared film), which gives very nice grainy images. You may have to look for ways to shoot that don't give too much IR-specific effects, if you don't want them. I have seen some nice, very grainy portraits taken with this film, and I have used it quite successfully for landscapes and interior shots, with very high grain.

Otherwise, I think Tri-X shot at 1600 and developed accordingly gives excellent results with lots of grain and high contrast. See Ellen von Unwerth's book _Snaps_ for some examples.

-- Jeff Spirer (jeffs@hyperreal.org), December 12, 1997.

texture and/or grain

I have used Tmax 3200 (shot at 3200) on several occasions to get a gritty look to the picture when I thought it would add something. This film is still sharp despite it's speed.

-- Frank Shepherd (franks@netdoor.com), May 25, 1999.