This Summer Some friends are going to Devils Tower. We have never climbed there before, and don't know what to bring. We have some Pro. but not to much. What should we bring and of how much of it. We plan on doing an easy route like durrance(5.7) because we have never been there before. I'm hoping someone could give me some guidance. Thank you! Robert Email=Heckerr@post.uwstout.edu

-- Robert Hecker (Heckerr@post.uwstout.edu), February 24, 1998

Answers

First, please be aware of the voluntary closure at Devil's Tower. Please respect the beliefs of other cultures even if they do not agree with your own. Don't ruin this place for everyone else. Second, be prepared to be swarmed by tourists. Hide, run, and scream as fast as you can. Third, the tower is stiff on many of its ratings. The durrance route was hard for its grade.(or I was really tired after being on the road for a month and a half) You will need atleast one set of cams, set of nuts, and slings for all of the routes. Plus regular gear like lockers, draws, etc. On many of the routes though, you will need some double cams. You can find routes that meet your gear specs. There are also some sport routes. You can buy a guide at the ranger cabin and tourist trap in the parking lot. Very cheap!!! Camping is ok and close. The summit is amazing and so is the sight of the tower. Have fun.

-- Ronnie Miller (dylan-miller@juno.com), February 27, 1998.

The voluntary closure is for the month of June. Please don't climb then out of respect for native american heritage. (And for the sake of climbing at the tower). The tourist thing is no lie, they love to swarm and ask questions, though conviently getting to the base of most climbs requires some 2nd class scrambling which keeps them away.

The original rating of the Durrance route was 5.6, which is definitely a bit stiff. (Or 24hrs of straight driving did us in.) Some modern guides give it a 5.7, which seemed about right. (though not soft) Keep in mind that the top of technical climbing on the Durrance, still is a few hundred feet of 2nd to 4th class traversing and climbing from the top. There are at least a dozen other quality lines that go at 5.7 or 5.8 and make it all the way to the top. A few more (as easy as 5.3) follow just the first couple of pitches of other climbs. The few routes we did were all quite sustained. Another serious concern in the summer is the sun. Direct afternoon sun makes the rock so hot it is uncomfortable to even stand on, and requires lots of water. It is better to plan to climb in the shade during the heat of the day.

As for gear, there a bunch of things working against a small rack: long pitches, constantly sized cracks, and wide cracks. But there are some routes (including the Durrance) that avoid some or all of these problems. As a cheaper alternative to doubling up on cams, we got by with a set of hexes and a set of cams (in addition to stoppers and a few tricams). Definitely pay attention to size recomendations. Have a great trip, the tower is an amazing place!

-- Bryan Palmintier (bryanp@stanford.edu), March 21, 1998.