HI! My friends and I are going out West this summer to climb. We are thinking about going to the Needles/Black Hills in S. Dakota. We do not know much about that area, but would love to hear some response from people who do know about it or have been there. Please share your stories!!! Also, what are some classic climbs around 5.7, and what type of pro. is needed? Hope to hear from you soon. THANKS:)

-- Julie Johnson (Johnsonju@post.uwstout.edu), March 22, 1998

Answers

The Black Hills are a glorious place to climb and have some very particular issues wrt ethics. Basically, the Black Hills Needles per se in Custer State Park can be very run out typically no bolts are placed once groundfall possibility has been eliminated. Meanwhile the Rushmore Needles has been more recently developed as a sport climbing area. Both are nice. I like the tradition of the Black Hills Needles. Two four star climbs that you *must* try there near Sylvan Lake is the 5.6 Weissner Crack, a luxurious squeeze chimney on the east facing side of the Inner Outlet and then Kamps Classic crack a nice fat 5.7 fist crack on the west side of the Inner Outlet. Both are easily protectable and take plenty of trad gear.

Chad

-- Chad Sandstrom (crsandstorm@imation.com), March 26, 1998.

Black Hills....ahhh what a place. And what is to be said about a climbing area that only allows bolting on lead without aid? Lots of scary runout faces climbing crystals that tend to shake a little. However, with a little know;edge, there are plenty of routes "safe" enough worth doing. However, 5.7 and lower will reduce your oppurtunities! Try Spire one in the cathedral spries...many other easy spires in this group as well. Tricouni nail is an easy 5.8 in the ten pins area....practice your simul-rapping though!! Also in the ten pins is the tent stake...awesome 5.7 climbing on a pin not entirely unlike the super pin. Anyway....spend $6 on the poor person's guide to the area and climb away. no worries, your nerves will become frayed early in the trip and won't bother you as much later on the that run out pitch you're freaking on!!! Also check out rushmore area for some less committing climbs like Gossamer....awesome wierd sport route at 5.8

later all!!

-- wisco climber (wiclimber@aol.com), April 13, 1998.