I am looking for info about a 5.7 A3 route on Half Dome called North West Butress. The route is on pg 152 in don reid's book. Specifically I would appreciate any beta, gear thoughts, and reccomendation on how you get off the thing (it dosent look like it tops out allowing for a cabels descent). I cant find anybody who knows about this route. Please help! Thanks

chip

-- Chip Serns (chipper@unm.edu), March 23, 1998

Answers

Hi Chip ...

The route is definitely not A3, more like A1. But there are free sections harder than 5.7, it is nice if you can at least lead 5.9 free. Basically how easy it is for you depends on your skill and speed as an aid climber. I definitely would not jump on this climb if you have never aid climbed. A good first aid climb is the South Face of Washington Column.

Don't worry, the NW Face tops out on Half Dome. It is a monster hike into this climb so you want to go when you are ready for it.

-George

-- George Bell (bell@advtech.uswest.com), March 24, 1998.

My previous answer assumed Chip was referring to the popular NW FACE route. However there is indeed an obscure route called the NW BUTTRESS. Anyone with any info on this route please respond to Chip's original question!

-- George Bell (bell@advtech.uswest.com), March 26, 1998.