I have heard of GRi-Gri's being used a a solo device for aid climbing. I have also heard people say "never do it". After talking to some rather accomplished aid climbers who use this system I am tempted to try it myself. Now, all logic aside, including Petzl's disclaimer, I want to hear from people who have used this set up, and what they think. Also, If you respond I may have to grill you for the modification specs. Cheers!

-- Mike Tea (mtea@ptc.com), August 25, 1998

Answers

ell, since it appears that no one wanted to touch this with a ten foot cheater stick, I went digging elsewhere. An unidentified Petzl engineer said to "never do it" but if you were going to do it, here is how....." This is based on a system used by a lot of big names. If anyone needs the specs, I have them.

-- Mike Tea (mtea@ptc.com), September 02, 1998.

I too know several people who have used this system with success, but another Petzl product, the Solo-aid(formerly from Rock Exotica) is more compact and probably more secure. It does, however, require you to feed it by hand, which the grigri does not.

--Steve --http://weber.u.washington.edu/~waydo

-- Steve Waydo (waydo@u.washington.edu), September 16, 1998.

i've used a grigri almost exclusively (other than clove hitches) to self-belay on both free and aid climbs. i used it on Space Shot without incident, but i didn't fall. then i took two good sized (30-35ft)falls on a fairly sporty aid route at the local crags. i almost went all the way to my backup knot on both ones. i wasn't using a chest harness in any instance (grigri clipped directly to harness only). my friend soloed the NA (el cap) with a grigri and no chest harness. he took some large rides but claimed it locked up adequately. i would like to hear any input from other soloists about their methods of bela

-- joe a. (powdergeek@hotmail.com), November 03, 1998.

The Gri-Gri is the best solo devise that I haved used. I have soloed a handful of walls in the Valley, Zion, Red Rock, etc. and have "logged some flight time" without a hitch. I have modified my Gri- Gri for my soloing, and tests have showed that it is Bomber. At least tape the handle down (don't restrict the cam that locks on the rope) and you will have no problem. The Rock Exotica Soloist will drop you in a fall that is slightly upside down, (don't use on slabs!!) and the solo-aid you have to use a chest harness. There is a 1000 ways to solo and 1 way to do it wrong. So just be careful.

-- Burt (epiclmber@hotmail.com), November 16, 1998.

I soloed Iron Hawk using a Solo Aid, and I soloed Native Son using a Gri-gri. I had the Solo Aid with me on NS, but was never tempted to use it - the Gri-gri is just so much more bitchin'! Both devices held falls on both routes. I don't put the rope through a chest harness as it lengthens my fall. The Solo Aid was a REAL pain on the free climbing at the top of IH - since you can't operate it with one hand, I had to pay out 9 or 10 feet of slack to pull a 5.10 free move, this move being 20' above my last pro (50' fall potential). Helluva a move to come out of Free Climbing Retirement to make..... Anyway, the only problem with the Gri-gri is that the rope tends to slip through it, putting unwanted slack between you and your lower belay anchor. You can remedy this by placing longish prusik loops on good pro every so often, say four or five times per pitch. DON'T clove hitch the pro as this can increase the fall factor (think about it!). Make sure the pro you use is decent enough to jumar on because it will be holding your weight when you clean the pitch. Darn good idea about taping down the handle on the Gri-gri, eh?! I'll have to remember that for next time.......(!) Also, try cleaning the pitch using the Gri-gri and only one jumar - you will be amazed and wonder why you ever cleaned using two jumars. And always remember to tie a backup knot below your solo device!

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok (pzabrok@netcom.ca), September 05, 1999.