1. About to develop my first roll of Tri-x (6x6 format) and would like recommendations for best developer for finest grain. 2. Looking for a light meter to use as I learn the Zone VI system and was looking for recommendations. Also, someone recommended a spot meter and I was wondering if this is a necessity or a low priority option. I have a Hassy 500cm so I need a meter which can do flash as well. Thanks very much.

-- anthony (ACordasco@NA2.US.ML.com), February 08, 1999

Answers

Xtol will give full speed and fine grain. I use it diluted 1+2. I like my Sekonic L308BII. It does incident and reflected, continuous and flash, and it fits conveniently in my shirt pocket.

-- Tim Brown (brownt@ase.com), February 09, 1999.

I assume you mean the Zone System, as invented by Ansel Adams. I've not heard of a 'Zone VI' system.

In my opinion, a spot meter should be high-priority for good control of your exposures. It enables you, with practice, to very quickly find the contrast range of your subject, and this tells you what exposure to use and how to develop the film (or whether you want the N-1, N or N+1 film magazine).

I use the Minolta Spotmeter F, which also does flash, but not incident light. There are plenty of other models on the market. If you can get close to your subject, a non-spot meter can be used, but it's not as convenient.

-- Alan Gibson (Alan.Gibson@technologist.com), February 11, 1999.

I use HC110 (1+40, 6', 20degrees C, to start with) for Trix 120, because I don't see why less grain is necessary on this format - I do not print larger than 11*14" (from Hasselbld negatives also). My experience with developers is, that when you capitalize on minimum grain, you loose nice contrast. HC110 does not give THE finest grain however, but it gives nice grain and the contrast is 'al dente'.

-- Lot (lotw@wxs.nl), February 14, 1999.

Before you go spend a bunch of money, buy a copy of _Beyond the Zone System_ by Phil Davis. Even if you don't go for his full sensitometry-based system you'll learn enough to make intelligent decisions about film, developers and hardware.

-- John Hicks / John's Camera Shop (jbh@magicnet.net), February 15, 1999.

I use a Sekonic L508 multimeter. At $429 you get a 1-4 degree variable spot meter plus a regular incident light meter plus various options for controlling/setting the readings. If you shoot slow speed color with one camera and medium-high speed b&w (or color) with another body, you can keep track of two ISOs simultaneously. L508 also enables you to use spot metering and an averaging routine (could do in your head, I guess), to give an optium exposure indication under difficult or unusual conditions. I also have used for years a Sekonic L398 incident/reflected light meter commonly found in studios but equally as good out of doors -- if you don't use it to pound tent pegs. For seriously photo work, you can't go wrong with a one-time investment in a good multi-functional spot meter.

-- Chuck Kershner (courierent@earthlink.net), August 28, 1999.