For Beseler Enlarger users...has anyone ever tried the Bes-Align 4x4 Adjustable Lensboard made by Delta One for the 45 & 23 series enlargers? Calumet carries this item for $33.99 (on backorder, though) I'm still waiting for it to arrive. The folks at Beseler said they heard very good things about it, although the tech guy has not personally used it. I've had an alighnment problem since day one and will try anything. Any info on this or any other product will be appreciated! Regina

-- Regina Hugo (vhugo@earthlink.net), February 16, 1999

Answers

The gizmo works as advertised. The only caveat is that you may be able to use only lenses of 75mm or longer depending on what size you're printing.

-- John Hicks / John's Camera Shop (jbh@magicnet.net), February 17, 1999.

Thanks John! I have a Schneider Componon S 50mm lens in my enlarger and I print mainly 8x10 and smaller. Occasionally I make an 11x14. Will this pose a problem while using the Bes-Align? I do not quite understand why I may have to use a 75mm lens or longer, although my dad thinks that the Bes-Align may change the focal point (?) Thanks again for all your advise! Regina

-- Regina Hugo (vhugo@earthlink.net), February 17, 1999.

The gadget you describe looks like it would work fine. I just wonder why you need it though. The Beseler enlargers are relatively easy to tram into alignment. The front/back adjustment is made where the enlarger head swings away from the column for horizontal projection. there is a set screw that sets how far toward or away from the column it is in the vertical position. The lens carrier adjusts for tilt by the screws near the spring click stop. You can see where it pivots. The zero position can be changed. The easiest target is a negative of a parallel grid that you can project and check for squareness and parallelism at the baseboard.

-- Tony Brent (ajbrent@mich.com), February 21, 1999.

I too had an alignment problem with my Bessler 45 and found the laser alignment tool (purchased from Calumet) solved the problem perfectly. It's easy to use and you can see the result of the realignments as you make them. The cost of the tool was an issue, but I no longer have an alignment problem.

-- Craig A. Uecker (zonie@gwi.net), February 25, 1999.

There are several gadgets from lasers to mirrors, for setting alignment. My method isn't as exact, but it's cheap. I spent quite a bit of time on the phone with a Beseler technician, and I do now have grain sharp across the print. (I switched to a glass carrier after reading Ctien's book, post exposure.) I have a 23C XL.

Take a negative with obvious grain structure (TMZ) and make an 11X14. Use a loupe to check the sharpness of the grain structure at each corner. If all the same, you are lucky, don't worry about alignment. On the other hand, if one side or one corner shades to fuzzy, it's probably an alignment problem. If center sharp, and corners fuzzy, that's negative flatness. (There's another issue of negative flatness. The glassless carriers most people use allow the center of the negative to be a little higher than the edges. Generally, stopping down two or three stops gives the best resolution, and the added depth of field helps with keeping the whole negative sharp. But ultimately, for optimum results, you need a glass carrier. They are a pain, because of all the surfaces to get dusty.) Alignment is a three step process, and you need a small level. I like the ones they call "torpedo" levels. The first step is a level baseboard. The enlarger should be on a firm, workbench type of support. I would work on getting that level, possibly with shim shingles that you glue in place. Once the baseboard is level, find something a little larger than the negative carrier which will fit into the negative carrier and give you a place to set the level. An 8X10 piece of glass, or even a similar piece of 1/4 inch plywood (not warped). The thumbscrew that torques down the whole assembly to the support beams should be tightened. Put the oversize "negative carrier" into the carrier and clamp it in place by putting the lever in its rear position. Place the level on the wood or glass that projects out side the negative carrier. It should be level both side to side and front to back. Note that the whole assembly can be tilted back to project on the wall if you release a catch. When the assembly swings back to verticle, it rests on a little bolt at the base of the assembly. That is the adjustment for vertical. Screw it in or out until the negative stage is level, front to back. If you have a side to side level problem, that's a little deeper. The old Beseler require that you find the two screws that hold the assembly to the piece that rides between the frames. Those holes get filed out (oval) so you can shift the assembly and retighten. The easy adjustment is the screw that the whole assembly rests on when returning from horizontal. Once the negative carrier is level to the baseboard, move on the the lens board. I put the level right against the lens, again checking front to back and side to side. Directly below the lens board, toward the rear, is a little knurled screw, typically with two white lines that line up. When you loosen that screw, you can twist the lens board from side to side. Set to level and tighten. Finally, check the front to back level of the lens. Here its a little tricky. This angle is adjusted by shims under the same gnarly screw that set the side to side. You will probably find a washer under that screw. You need a thinner or thicker washer to vary the tilt of the assembly. Any shim stock works, even layers of cardboard. As you can see, its not as easy as turning a few screws. The new Beselers have been designed for easier alignment. Once set, it should stay in place for a while, but especially with a new setup of an old model, I would check it out. Light source is a whole other issue. I have replaced the condensers with the ARisto cold light head.

-- Phil Stiles (pjs@worldpath.net), February 27, 1999.