HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO DO NUTCRACKER. THEIR WILL BE THREE OF US. ONE WITH EXTENSIVE TRAD EXPERIENCE, ONE WITH LIMITED TRAD EXP. AND ONE WITH VERY LITTLE. WE ARE ALL STRONG CLIMBERS BUT ARE QUESTIONING THE TIME IT WILL TAKE WITH THE DIFFERENT ABILITY LEVELS. ALSO, ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A FUN SLAB ROUTE.

THANKS FOR THE HELP!

-- ANDY DAUTRICH (ADAUTRICH@AOL.COM), February 28, 1999

Answers

Whew, that is a tough question. The nutcracker has reportedly been free-soloed in about 8 minutes. On the other hand, some parties have all day (and into the night) epics. Most parties fall somewhere inbetween. A party of three will certainly slow things down. The climb is pretty straightforward and should not trouble solid 5.8 climbers. If your party of three has climbed together before, take your per-pitch average time and multiply by five!

As for good slab routes, go to Glacier Point Apron. Grack, Cow, Harry Daley, Point Beyond are all good places to start. Don't be expecting great pro on all Apron routes however...

-- Dave Hill (dfhill@engr.psu.edu), March 04, 1999.

The time required for the Nutcracker will depend upon BOTH your group's ability AND the number of other parties on the climb. The number of other parties is often the deciding factor on how long it takes you to climb as this climb is probably the most popular multi-pitch climb in Yosemite. Even if everyone in your group can climb 5.8 with ease, I would allow yourself all day on this climb to account for other parties. I have been caught behind other parties and ended up benighted on this climb without a light or a second rappel rope. Be sure to bring a second rope for rappelling in case you have to bail. I learned the hard way that the rappel points are greater than 100 ft apart. Also bring a headlamp, water, and food for a day.

The "Nutcracker" is a very fun climb, so don't let my experience scare you - I had a great time even though I had an benighting epic. Just plan for a whole day climb so you do not get upset by being behind other parties who may be slower than your party. Good luck!

-- Mark A. Fletcher (mfletche@turnerdesigns.com), March 08, 1999.