Good evening,

Has anyone heard of or climbed Serenity Crack in the yosemite valley? If so whats it rated? do you have anyother beta on it (ex: rack, how many pitches long, etc). Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Brian

-- Brian (slobri@aol.com), March 17, 1999

Answers

Oh my God is that a fabulous climb!! One of the best 10a's in the Valley, to be sure. Oops, excuse me, the climb is 10d, but that is just one section, the rest is 5.9-5.10a fingers and hands. Three pitches, standard rack, with extra med nuts and yellow tcu's/aliens. The scars absolutely eat up nuts.

Have fun on the start, it is very exciting! Easy, but a bit run out to the bolt. Don't waste your time trying to wiggle in a piece, just go for it.

-- David Hill (dfhill@engr.psu.edu), March 19, 1999.

Agreed, Serenity Crack is a fabulous climb! Don't miss it. The bulge on the third pitch is the only 10d section. Place a good piece and just go for it; don't stop in the middle of the crux!

You might also consider doing "Sons of Yesterday, 10a" which starts just above and to the left of Serenity Crack. This is one of the best hand cracks I've done in Yosemite. Supurb hand jams that you can literally hang off of; tape up. Protects well; eats up medium size Friends. I seem to remember it being 4 or 5 pitches and a scramble to the top on scree but my partner and I chose to rap down the route. If you rap be very careful when you pull the rope as its easy to get it hung up in the crack. Have fun!

-- Bruce Maples (bmaples@cinele.com), March 23, 1999.