I'm looking for any available beta/trip reports on the original 5.9 route on Higher Cathedral Spire that would supplement the topo in Reid's "Yosemite Climbs."

Thanks.

-- Dan Rampe (rampe@pacbell.net), April 28, 1999

Answers

Hi Dan,

I climbed the route 13 years ago so may be able to help you a little. I've heard that more recently there was a huge rockfall on the route that has completely changed one of the upper pitches. The route has a reputation for loose rock and I remember the pitch that fell off being funky and scary (I think it's pitch 4?). Routefinding is tricky too - there is a traverse in pitch 2 (?) that we spent a lot of time lessing around on. The one good thing about the route is that the cruxes are not too long.

I have also done the "NE Corner" route on the Upper Cathedral Spire (10a), and would recommend this route over the regular route. It isn't much harder although the crux is more sustained (but nicely protected by hand-sized cams all the way). The rock on the NE corner is far better.

-George

-- George Bell (gibell@geocities.com), May 04, 1999.