A couple of questions about Misty Wall, although any beta is appreciated. 1. Current rating? How many, if any, of the aid pitches go clean? 2. Do you need a portaledge, or can you fix to the top of p.3 and bivy (2 people) on top of 10? 3. Gear??? 4. Any crowds? (forgive east coast ignorance if so...) 5. Anything else you think might be helpful. I havent found much info on this route yet.

Thanks.

-- roger murphy (rogermurphy@stowe.k12.vt.us), June 14, 1999

Answers

I did the Misty Wall several years ago, with a direct start from the bottom of the falls, adding three free pitches at about 5.9ish. You don't need a ledge, as you can bivy at the bottom, p.3 and top of 10, and though it was tight it was better than the bivy on The Prow of W. Column. We did not fix any pitches. We took four easy days, including the approach. All of the aid was pretty easy, not over A2+, and the worst of it was doing the traverses, that was mostly awkwardness. Nothing to worry about if the falls are thin, and the wind light. There was some gardening to be done, as it doesn't get done often, no biggie.

You won't find any crowds on it, I never even heard of anyone else doing it, so have fun. It is an easy and fun route with a spectacular view. Only you MUST do it when the falls are small. That means a high summer/fall climb. Tend towards the latter (Sept.), as the thunderstorms in the high country can kill you in the summer months.

As far as I can remember, I would bring a light normal wall rack; Double set stoppers 2 sets friends, nothing above #4Camalot some pins,mostly LA's and a head or two. Take a couple of hooks, though I don't remember using them. It may go clean, but there are some pengy points, and you would rather leave a pin. Anyone with questions can contact me at; genewestrascal@aol.com Enjoy!

-- gene west (genewestrascal@aol.com), February 05, 2001.