looking for beta on the dihedral wall. does it go clean? what's the rack? how loathesome are the chimneys and off-widths? How many days? What's the best exit off thanksgiving? is it real a3?

is it a good route? who the hell has climbed it?

thanks.

-- seana doherty (streamline1@earthlink.net), August 21, 1999

Answers

It's pretty straightforward A2+; i guess it's A3 if fixed gear rips. There's no off width and the chimneying is limited to the pitch before Thanksgiving Ledge and is more of hiking up a gulley (exit this pitch on a steep 5.9 crack at the top and to the right of the main gulley). I didn't do the official finish of the route above T. Ledge (pitches 23 -27)- it looked too low angle, too loose and no fun. I don't know anyone who's done the official finish - too ugly. Gear: 1 rurp, 2 KBs, 6 LA mostly med. thick, a good selection of sawed-offs, hooks, rivit hangers and threaded nuts, bolt kit (just incase), some heads (we didn't place any), standard selection of TCUs and cams. We did the route in 27 hours and change. Don't know about doing it hammerless but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes - we only hammered on a few pitches. Good luck.

-- Greg Murphy (greg_murphy@ermwest.com), August 23, 1999.