Mt Rosa/Lyskamm in novembergreenspun.com : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread |
I wish to ask you few questions about your mountaineering trip in the Alps, Monte Rosa group. B I will go there this year in November. The itinerary: 1.day: arrival in breuil-cervinia - Italy, then go up to Plateau Rosa, and under the south face of Breithorn to rocky part, pitch up tent, sleep 2.day: arrival under the North face of Lyskamm 3.day: snow&ice routes on Lyskamm's north face 4.day: snow&ice route on Lyskamm's north face and ski down to Zermatt B There is another itinerary which will be followed in case of "not so good" weather 1.day: same as above 2.day: traverse of Lyskamm (West-East ridge), tent, sleep 3.day: summit of monte-rosa, nord-end and then ski down to Zermatt. B Please tell me what you think of these two itinerraries. Also I would like to ask you what are the conditions in general in early November like? I will definately use skis, so that I will be faster. Is there big avalanche danger (under north face of liskamm, south face of Breithorn)? is the normal route to monte-rosa (dufourspitze) potentially dangerous, I mean serac falls, avalanches, rockfall etc.? B Did you use skis on your tour also? When did you go there, how many days? Where did you sleep. B Please take few minutes to help me with this "questionarre" as I am in big! need for info. Thank you very much in advance, for your more than helpful answers!
-- Anze (anze.cokl@guest.arnes.si), October 12, 1999
In general conditions for ice climbing in november are not very good, with old ice and open crevasses on glaciers. At this time of the year you would not normally need skis. I was there in spring, but only for ski touring on the normal route of monte rosa. i stayed at the hut. the route is easy and pretty safe.
-- Quang-Tuan Luong (luong@ai.sri.com), October 14, 1999.