From slide to inkjet?

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Okay, here's the question: I want to improve the quality of my inkjet prints so I can use them in my professional portfolio. As of today, my technique has been to scan them into Photoshop 5.0 (PC) on the Nikon SCS 2000 at the factory default, 1350 dpi, with clean image selected. I then hit the contrast button and scan away. In Photoshop, I crop the black edge, hit auto levels, then fade to 50%, mostly with luminosity selected. I then unsharp mask at 125%, radius 1.0, threshold 0. After that, I do minor color correction with variations, adding minimal red and yellow for warmth, which is my shooting style, as i almost alway leave a 81B or 81C on the lens. After that, I add 10 - 20% saturation, and I'm finished. Now my image is ready for the printer, but when it comes out (epson stylus photo 700) it's always darker on Kodak inkjet photo paper. I try to lighten it up with printer controls, but then I get halos around the darker objects. I've tested away, but I still can't figure it out. I just recently purchased the new epson stylus photo 1270 to make 11x14 prints, but I don't want to keep screwing it up. Is it my paper choice? Is there a better paper? Is it my printer controls, monitir gamma, dpi vs lpi settings, dot gain? Am I doing something wrong in Photoshop? I am stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I don't want to keep paying $35 each for professional c-prints.

Thanks, David Paler

-- David Paler (swavy@erols.com), April 21, 2000

Answers

If you are getting dark prints, your monitor is not properly calibrated. Check out this site http://www.aim-dtp.net/aim/index.htm for information on monitor calibration. Scan at 2700 dpi. Use multi-pass scanning to improve the shadow detail. Import the image into photoshop as a 16 bit tiff file. and do the adjustments for levels, colour balance and contrast there. You're unsharp masking setting are probably a bit low for the image sizes you are working on. When you print make sure your printing in the same coulour space you are working in. This way, if your monitor is calibratd properly, the print should match what you see.

Jonathan I run my monitor at gamma 1.0 and have my monitor calibrated for white and black points. I am printing on polaroid paper with no additional colour settings. One thing to remember is that all papers are not white and the setting for one type of paper will not work with another brand. You need to standardize on the paper you use. A good step is to make a small version of the image you are trying to print. Moving it around the page, make prints with different settings till you get close to the final version you want.

-- Jonathan Ratzlaff (jonathanr@clrtech.bc.ca), April 21, 2000.


David - I would say stick with the Epson papers for your 1270 printer, they are the papers tested for the light fastness. Plus - if you like glossy prints, the new Premium Glossy Photo Paper is incredible. I just got the 1270 myself, so I am still trying it out.

I am using an HP Photosmart scanner for my prints, however, I have been looking at the Nikon LS2000 and Polaroid SS4000 for an upgrade on the dynamic range. I would be interested in hearing about your experiences with blowing up to 11x14 on the 1270 with your scanner.

-- Mark Graf (grafphoto@earthlink.net), April 21, 2000.


I tried the Kodak papers and didn't like them. Went back to Epson (at more than the cost for silver based photo paper - can't figure that one.)

The clean image (Digital Ice) function on the Nikon results in some loss of image sharpness. Turn it off if you don't need it.

Absolutely use the highest resolution, 16 pass scanning, and 16 bit capture - get the best image at capture that you can.

Good advice above. If you are willing to invest a bit you could buy ICC color management software, like EZColor from Monaco. Consistency from scan to print.

Reviews:

http://www.flatbed-scanner- review.org/color_management_ICC_profiles/color_management_ICC.html

Monaco:

www.monacosys.com

-- Michael T. Murphy (mmurph@ix.netcom.com), April 21, 2000.


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