Rodenstock lens or schneider lens should I choosegreenspun.com : LUSENET : Large format photography : One Thread |
Should I choose rodenstock lens or schneider lens for my 4x5 camera? By what reasons I should choose this brand? If I like to take panaranma pictures which brand of lens is better than the others? Thank you for your help.
-- Ernest Lee (ernestlee98@yahoo.com), May 18, 2000
Your question is too broad. Both brands are excellent. If you want a recommendation, you will need to limit your question to a specific lens or range of lenses.
-- William Marderness (wmarderness@hotmail.com), May 18, 2000.
Your question is far too broad. Both we, Rodenstock, and Schneider have a large range of lenses of different types for different purposes.We would be happy to mail you detailed specifications on the full range of Rodenstock lenses. This would aid you in determining what you maight want.
You would receive deteailed specifications on the following lenses lines with MTF, color and distortion curves:
Apo Sironar N Apo Sironar S Apo Grandagon Grandagon Apo Sironar Digital Apo Sironar Macro
You could then get similar information from Schneider to help you compare performance.
If you don't understand MTF we can also mail you a detailed explanation of how to read MTF charts.
-- Bob Salomon (bobsalomon@mindspring.com), May 18, 2000.
Bob,Rodenstock was reputed to have an adhesive failure problem in the lens elements. Can you speak (honestly) about that, and when it was rectified?
I have a Ysarex 135mm on a Crown that shows the classic symptoms.
-- Bruce Gavin (doc@compudox.com), May 19, 2000.
Let's see Bruce I've been shooting with a couple of Rodenstock lenses for sixteen years now and haven't seen that problem. I work in the field and in the studio.Ernest, Either. I like Rodenstock and Nikon, Schneider lenses are a little too cool in their color balance for me but I sure would love to get my hands on the Schneider 110 mm f/5.6 XL Super Symmar
-- Ellis Vener (evphoto@insync.net), May 19, 2000.
"Rodenstock was reputed to have an adhesive failure problem in the lens elements. Can you speak (honestly) about that, and when it was rectified? "No problem within the last 3 decades or so.
Before that I would not know.
Are you attempting to say that you have a lens with separation?
That could have many causes, The most common and likely cause occurs from any type of impact or shock dislodging a piece of sealent around the elements in the cell and that allows moisture to enter at that point which over the course of time results in separation.
This happens regardless of the type of glue used.
-- Bob Salomon (bobsalomon@mindspring.com), May 20, 2000.
Ernest, IMHO there is probably very little difference between any of the "big" four, ie Schneider, Rodenstock, Fuji or Nikon as far as performance is concerned. Variables such as vibration during exposure, dev times etc will play a bigger part in the performance of a lens. I use Schneider out of choice, but did briefly try a Nikon 75mm. But this lens didn't have the right "feel" for me personally, but I imagine it would be fairly impossible to tell whether a negative was made with a particular brand/make. I also opted for Schneider so that I could try the 110 XL, and it does live up to all the claims!!!. However I would not dismiss any other make when it came to future choices solely o n performance, I just happen tp like Schneider!! Finally I did read somewhere that Rodenstock lenses reproduced colour better, Schneider were the choice for B&W due to their "tonality", Nikon were very sharp and Fuji just down right expensive!!!! Best of Luck!! Paul
-- paul owen (paulowen_2000@yahoo.com), May 20, 2000.
I have a 135mm Ysarex on a Crown Graphic that has separation at the edge that looks like an oil smear between the elements. I figure the production to be late 60's to early 70's. I bought the Crown from the original owner, who had it in storage for years. The rig appeared to be virtually brand new.The Ysarex is on the shelf now, replaced by a Nikkor-W 135mm lens. I am toying with replacing the Nikkor with an Apo-Sironar-S in 135mm, just so I can have the absolute best sharpness in the corners.
-- Bruce Gavin (doc@compudox.com), June 01, 2000.