The latest Climbing mag (screamer of the month) mentions a big chunk of rock being pulled off of Iron Hawk. I was wondering if this was the pitch off of El Cap Tree ledge (pitch 4), below the roof? Does anyone know exactly...

Thanks, Jimmy Ray

-- Jimmy Forester (jimmy.forester@wcom.com), June 16, 2000

Answers

I don't know if that was the pitch, but we just did the route last week and it still goes. That pitch is the technical crux of the route and is quite loose, so it very well could be. It is also the only pitch that has a ledge between the belayer and leader, so I think it maybe the one. Of course, if that team did the original start then the rock fall could have been there, but no one would do that would they?

-- Ronnie Miller (dylan-miller@juno.com), June 19, 2000.

Oops, I was thinking of the original start on the AO Wall. This makes it more reasonable that it has to be the pitch below the roof. Ronnie

-- Ronnie Miller (dylan-miller@juno.com), June 19, 2000.

We saw the damage a few days after it happened. It was pretty creepy at night w/ the water dripping off the rock, the fixed line hanging, and all that rockfall. With headlamps it was hard to tell where it came from.

What exactly happened w/ that fall?

-- Brian (slobri@aol.com), June 19, 2000.

Was it that big flake to the left of the false belay under the roof? When I climbed it two years ago I place a cam behind it and the whole thing started to grown. When I got of it, it settled back and crushed my cam (maybe Cameron Lawson was after my cam?) Hopefully it's the same flake. If it's gone it should make the route all about NW A2+ instead of NWA4!

-- Andy K (andykirkpatrick@tesco.net), June 20, 2000.

It must have been that flake because there is no flake to the left of the belay under the roof. There is that little expando section right after the ancient bolt and then a white, chalky, crumbly bunch of rock you have to hook and then free climb to get to the belay. That had to be where the fall occurred. It is still quite difficult because the hooks are on very fragile rock, but it is possible it is now easier. Who knows? It is still a pretty fun route! The roof is incredible! Ronnie

-- Ronnie Miller (dylan-miller@juno.com), June 25, 2000.

When I read the posting, I would have guessed the rockfall was the left side of that flake you pendulum onto at the start of the 18th(?) pitch. I remember thinking that sucker was ready to go any time! But I guess if there were fixed lines about, it had to be down lower, eh? Just curious - has ANYONE ever done the "original" way up to the roof above El Cap Tree? The original way is up to the right along a crack which appears wet, but I'm told is actually pretty good. It seems that everyone follows A.O. Wall up to the left and climbs over that HUGE loose flake. Man, I nearly had a heart attack when I weighted a #3 Friend behind the thing and it creaked and groaned. That bastard is like two stories high! Cheers, Pete

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok (peterzabrok@home.com), September 04, 2000.

I was thinking of trying this route this fall. Can anyone tell me more about the 5.9+ runouts at the top of the climb? I have heard the climbing isn't really that hard but there is little to no pro. What's the real deal? Also, what was everyone's experience in amount of fixed gear- i.e. how many heads would you suggest bringing and what size are most useful? Generally speaking of course because it changes from one ascent to another... Thanks!

-- Mark Westman (denalimark@hotmail.com), May 03, 2001.