Whenever I try to dry fiber-based prints on my Premier heated dryer with the canvas apron, there are inevitably "oyster shell" marks on the print, i.e., spots where ferro-typing failed to occur.

I've tried glycerin-based mixtures in the soaking water prior to putting them on the dryer but this doesn't completely eliminate the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any suggestions and/or advice.

Thanks.

-- Michael Carlo (baudelaire3@webtv.net), September 05, 2000

Answers

Michael:

Forget the fancy dryer. I dry my prints between screens overnight and they turn out just fine. Of course the prints dry curled, but a minute in the dry mounting press between two sheets of mat board will take care of this. Hope this helps and good luck.

Tom Schumacher

-- Tom Schumacher (tlschuma@orotech.net), September 05, 2000.

Whether or not you prefer "natural" gloss to the surface of a glazed print is a matter of taste. Glazing is known to be difficult, and there are a couple of chemicals (such as Tetenal Glanzol) that are supposed to avoid the marks you describe. However, it is vital that the glazing surface be absolutely clean, and there must not be any air bubble between the print and the glazing surface.

-- Thomas Wollstein (thomas_wollstein@web.de), September 06, 2000.

I struggled vainly for years to make glossy prints on a Premier dryer and other similar machines. I don't recall ever getting an 8x10 that was actually glossy all over. I tried the old flat ferrotype tins and dried the prints at room temperature. That didn't work either. I wonder whether the Kodak Polycontrast paper I used had enough gelatin on it to be capable of a gloss. Today I use RC glossy paper on the rare occasions when I want a gloss. I much prefer the Ilford Perle finish, anyway. Well, I hope my words of encouragement send you forward with renewed hope.

-- Keith Nichols (knichols@iopener.net), September 06, 2000.

Ages ago, when I ferrotyped (glazed) my prints, I used separate ferrotype plates, put them in the dryer (the separate plate increases the tension on the canvas, and helps.)Here are the tricks to making it work.

The ferrotype surface must be meticulously clean. Use a ferrotype polish (if they still make it).

You need extreme tension to keep the print from "popping" until it completely dry.

Use low temperature. If you dryer is adjustable, go for the lowest setting and plan to take an hour or two, maybe over night. I seem to remember running it on high for a few minutes, then turning it off and letting them dry overnight.

I think I had a little better results with single weight paper vs. double weight.

If the emulsion on your prints with "oyster shell marks" is not damages, you can re-soak in water and try again.

Today, if I want glossy, I use RC. For everything else, I put the paper against the canvas, and get the natural texture of the emulsion, which is just fine for most work.

Good luck.

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), September 06, 2000.

I have not done this in a long time, but I am given to understand that newer papers have thinner gelatin layers, which makes glazing that much harder. Try a retro paper like Bergger with thick emulsion and see if the problem goes away. All remarks above regarding polishing, keeping the ferrotype plates clean etc. still apply though.

-- Mani Sitaraman (bindumani@pacific.net.sg), September 07, 2000.

clean plates low heat and a rubber roller to get all the air and water out from the print so it makes good contact with plate. I have the same dryer and have good sucess useing this method. Just put the print on dryer plate and run the roller over print. The roller should be as wide as the print. They use to make photo rollers in many sizes, not sure if any body still makes them.

-- Larrye Edye (WA4GMS@webtv.net), September 07, 2000.

The only ferrotyping solution that ever worked for me was Pakosol with a Pako drum dryer. The surface has to be absolutely clean. You might want to try a piece of glass for the ferrotyping surface. The problem is getting a ferrotyping solution that will make the print release from the surface. You might want to look in the PhotoLab Index for a print release solution that you can make. You can soak the print in the solution, and then put it face down on the glass, then use a printing brayer (roller for etching available at art stores) to roll the print in contact with the glass to eliminate air bubbles. Roll gently from the center outwards toward the corners, then vertically, then horizontally - and wait for the print to dry.

-- (s.swinehart@worldnet.att.net), September 20, 2000.