I climbed Mescalito in September (hammerless in 4 bivies). I keep reflecting to a move on pitch 15 and it's made me curious (wondering if everyone does the move that way, or did I miss a bat hook)

The move in question involves a sheared-off dowel (looked like a penny nail), headless, and BARELY protruding from the wall. This "nail" occurs about 20ft off of the belay and is the 1st piece in the pending rivet ladder. Only the thinnest of rivet hangers would fit over it. Getting to it and the big high-step off of it to reach the next rivet was delicate, athletic and scary. I don't see how anyone under 5.10 could hope to reach the next rivet. As much traffic as Mescalito gets, it's hard to imagine that everyone goes off of this thing? Did I miss something, or do they? Someday I'm sure it will get replaced/upgraded.

Thanks for any info, Jimmy

-- Jimmy Forester (jimmy.forester@wcom.com), October 23, 2000

Answers

i'd just like to say that i'm glad that a few people out there are making the effort to quit beating out wall routes. mostly it seems like people are just to chicken shit or don't care. i ran into two old dorks nailing on the first 10c pitch of the free blast. it just about broke my heart.

can't wait to do mescalito.

-- wallgeek (chachi@davidhasselhof.com), November 14, 2000.

Oh yeah, lots and LOTS of crappy old rivets all over El Cap. The ones on the Trip are notorious for blowing and sending people for long falls. NEVER expect good rivets - always be suspicious. Some of those things are ancient. They do get replaced from time to time, but only if someone pulls them! You might want to get a "Doubloon" from Fish. It's basically a filed-down washer that really bites into dubious rivets. I bought a couple of the things, and of course have never used them even once! But they'd be "the shit" in a situation such as what you describe. Then again, if a small rivet hanger works, why bother? Cheers, Pete

-- Pass the Pitons Pete (peterzabrok@home.com), March 28, 2001.

I seem to remember my partner doing at least one bathook on that pitch right where you say. I remember he said there was a rivit missing, or broken, or something and it was a little gripping.

-- Mark Westman (denalimark@hotmail.com), May 03, 2001.