I'm having difficulty finding details about the SF20. How powerful? How versatile? Any real world experiences?

And what about alternatives? Ideally, the flash unit I want is relatively small, but sufficiently powerful to illuminate, say, a subject ten or twelve feet away in dim room.

What about the Metz? I understand there are two of them.

Thanks!

-- Howard Blumenthal (howardb@voicenet.com), January 28, 2001

Answers

Howard,

I have the SF20. It presumably has a guide number of 30. You can choose TTL or manual operation and it has a diffuser head with enough coverage for 28 mm. I rarely use the flash and when I do its always in manual mode (I have a M6 TTL). Personally, I still think that there is a problem with red-eye as the lens to flash head distance is really not that great. I would have liked a PC flash synch socket so that I could use a PC cable with the flash off-camera (handheld or assistant held) for more versatile lighting options. There should also be a provision for exposure lock in TTL mode for flash output. Like when I meter an off-center subject... test with flash.... then lock in the TTL setting and re-compose. Without this feature I'm afraid TTL flash is non- effective as I rarely make pictures where the subject dominates the center of the frame. If I had to do it all over again I would've gotten an older Vivitar with the variable output and guide numbers on the dial. Since I use the SF20 in manual mode mostly I feel that I've wasted my money on the useless TTL functions (as I am not into paparazzi type photography).

Cheers,

John.

-- John Chan (ouroboros_2001@yahoo.com), January 29, 2001.

Howard,

I use a Metz 45 CL-4, yes, I know it's a bit overkill, but, it's what I have available. The combination of my M-6 (non-TTL) and the Metz raises a few eyebrows, and, of course I get the inevitable, "Do you think you've got a big enough flash?" comment. The combination is used mainly for snapshots at parties and events with my 35mm f/2 Sumicron I have never gotten good enough with a flash to consider using it 'artistically'. I put the flash on f/8 auto, set the ASA one stop faster then the film I'm using, e.g., 400 ASA film set to 800 ASA. Pre-select (hyperfocal) my focus at 2m and shoot away. I've had a moderate amount of success. Again, I'm only documenting the moment, not creating art. The message here is, any flash with a sufficient GN will do the trick. I hope this helps.

Regards,

Jim

-- (james.kuhn-1@kmail.ksc.nasa.gov), January 29, 2001.

Hi Howard:

I have the SF20 for use on an M6 TTL, when the rare need arrises... It works fine. The guide number is around 80 feet (30 meters) with ISO 100 film. It has TTL, AUTO, MANUAL, and BRACKET functions. It is about the size of a pack of cigarettes, which I like. It covers 35mm without the add-on diffuser. I don't like the fact it uses lithium 123's in lieu of AA's, and the head does not bounce or rotate or zoom (There is an ad-on diffuser for up to 24mm coverage). BUT, these contribute to the unit being small and light-weight, so it is always in the side pocket of Domke F3X. In use, I generally set the flash to under-expose by 1/3 or 2/3 stop, which helps prevent the subject from loking flashed. Hope this helps!

Jack

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), January 29, 2001.

Correction! The SF20 guide number is 20 meters or about 65 feet with ISO 100 film. (I get a bit more usefull range out of it because I underexpose, as explained earlier...) Of course, this distance drops when you add the wide-angle diffuser.

Sorry for the earlier error,

Jack

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), January 29, 2001.

The SF20 is small, light and the lithium batteries seem to last forever. I've had mine almost a year and still on the original batteries, no leakage either. I use it for fill, mostly, setting the shutter to 1/30-1/50 with the M6TTL and the EV control to -1 or -2. I've gotten no red-eye with it using 35 or 90mm lenses.

It's a simple flash without a lot of fancy features, just works well for what I use it for. Probably cheaper ways to go but I'm satisfied.

Godfrey

-- Godfrey DiGiorgi (ramarren@bayarea.net), January 29, 2001.

I use the SF-20 as well and I like it a lot. Its small size means I am carrying it when I want it; not cursing because I left it at home. Metz makes this flash for Leica by the way.

Cheers

-- John Collier (jbcollier@home.com), January 29, 2001.

Is it true that other TTL flashes (like the Nikon SB 24) drain the battery in the M6 TTL FASTER than the SF20? Maybe I should just stick to manual flash. I wish Leica just put the large shutter speed dial and new meter indicators on the old M6. Sleeker, and more functional... for what I want accomplished.

-- John Chan (ouroboros_2001@yahoo.com), January 29, 2001.

All manufacturers use their own TTL circuits. Even cameras that only use the SCA system have their own unique adapter. You cannot put a Nikon TTL flash onto a Leica (or any other camera) and expect it to work. With the Nikon flash on the M6TTL, the flash gets hot and it runs the batteries down on the M6TTL. They are both so obviously unhappy campers that YOU SHOULD NOT DO IT! Use a hot shoe adapter (Kaiser makes them) if you must use a Nikon flash on a M6TTL.

Cheers

-- John Collier (jbcollier@home.com), January 29, 2001.

SF20 is a nice little flash for daylight fill-in on people's faces (I use it with the R8). It is not a flash for illuminating dark places at any distance. I personally don't see the point in TTL flash on an M6 unless you're using either a longer lens or bellows on a Visoflex, so I'd suggest something like a Sunpak 383 Super (same power but smaller profile as Vivitar 283). If you really want the TTL function, go with a Metz 32Z2 (you don't need the motorized zoom of the MZ type) and the SCA3501 module. Again, I don't think TTL is any advantage on an M6, so as a small pocketable unit I carry an Olypus S20. This is identical to the Leica CF minus the Minilux dedication and also the flash which comes with the Hexar RF. It cost $50 at B&H.

-- Jay (infinitydt@aol.com), January 30, 2001.

To sum up: 1. Although I'm not likely to use the SF20 often, it's handy and sometimes useful. 2. Best for fill-flash outdoors, and for illuminating subjects who aren't too far away in spaces that aren't too dark. 3. If I want to go heavier-duty, Metz offers one or more units. But with an M6TTL, that's probably overdoing it.

Thanks for the help.

-- Howard Blumenthal (howardb@voicenet.com), January 30, 2001.

I have the SF20 and find it very handy to use w/ the M6TTL. I've gotten the best results using it for fill, with use the diffuser to soften the flash and the power adjusted to -1 2/3. This combination gives a nice soft flash effect, that fills the shadows, but isn't overpowering. Using it in this manner also reduces the shadows created w/ verticle compositions, that would otherwise occur since this unit doesn't bounce or swivel.

The main complaint I've heard about this flash unit is it's price. There's no denying that it's expensive based on its modest specs, but it does work very well and the M6TTL is much easier for me to use flash with, than the M6 Classic was. This unit is also so small and light that there's no reason for me not to have it with me.

-- KL Prager (www.pragerproperties@worldnet.att.net), January 31, 2001.

I no longer use flash so much after changing from R to M - no ideology here, it just worked out that way - but I have recently used two of the little 34's from Metz. Very handy and you can use one as the direct flash and use the other for bounce using the integrated slave function. This was the feature that sold me on them. It can be slightly awkward unless you have someone else point the second flash at the ceiling. Or you can prop it against something. However, this was on the non-TTL cameras...

At this point, though, I'm thinking that something like the new 54 (which is actually a GN45 @50mm zoom position- rather naughty of Metz, I think) might be very handy. Flash is a difficult one, always a compromise if you're wanting to work fast.

Rob.

-- Robert Appleby (laintal@tin.it), January 31, 2001.