Hi... I was wondering if anyone knows anything about the lower pitches of New Dawn, my buddy and I were wanting to maybe do this route to el cap tower then continue up the nose. The idea is to see how we do on some harder pitches without being too committed- then, some classic nose pitches to the top. Anyway, how are those New Dawn pitches? Are they pretty good? Is the C3 reasonable, or a clean fall? Thanks alot for any help! take care,

-- Tyler Schlicting (native_ecstasy@hotmail.com), February 01, 2001

Answers

I've climbed up as far as Lay Lady Ledge on New Dawn on my way to do Reticent. I remember the climbing to be fairly straightforward, clean, pleasant. Certainly no lineups to fight like on the Nose! I see we passed the so-called C3 sections. Now, pray tell, why on earth would you want to climb at C3 instead of A1 or A2??? Do you LIKE making things harder just to say you did it "clean"? I guess some people are into that, but not me. Holy frig, I'm a total chicken-shit when it comes to wall climbing! If I've got a choice between a solid pin and some shaky wire or cam hook or whatever just to keep it clean, I don't have to think twice. Out with the hammer, in with the pin. Clean ratings are more or less bullshit as far as I'm concerned. To say you climbed NA Wall "clean" is nonsense - you are 100% dependent on the fixed heads being in place. Either that, or you've got a long cheat stick. The C3 on New Dawn is reasonable for me, because I'd whack a pin in as soon as I got scared. I don't DO long falls, clean or not! Cheers, Pete

As for finishing the route, if you've got a portaledge, why not finish on New Dawn and do the whole route??? That would be a lot more adventurous than finishing on the Nose!

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete (peterzabrok@home.com), March 28, 2001.

it's not about being able to say you did it "clean". it's about not fucking up the rock anymore. i guess our egos are more important than some choss pile like el cap.

bummer, joe.

-- joe auer (auerjoe@aros.net), May 21, 2001.