I am by no means a Big Wall climber but I have heard of a route on El Cap called "Tempest". Does anyone have any info on this route and who did the first ascent?

-- Ralf (ralfreyes@hotmail.com), February 08, 2001

Answers

I think that is a Brad Jarrett route, but I could be mistaken. Pretty sure this route is the real deal. If you know a kid named Spaz, he posts here occasionally, he has been on the first few pitches. I heard a rumor (from Chongo) that someone broke there back on 2nd or 3rd pitch. Have fun...send!

-- Brent from colorado (pinscar@hotmail.com), February 20, 2001.

Yeah, Spaz and Christian climbed the first three pitches then bailed. Spaz told he wasn't quite "up" for it, having recently taken a nasty long hard aid solo fall on the column. Seems he trusted too many old fixed pitons, a cam pulled, and he took a bad fall when old piton eyes failed. After that, ya can't blame a guy for bailing. I know the feeling. Anyway, I think Tempest has seen only two ascents. It starts just right of South Seas, crosses it on the ramp on the third pitch, then rejoins around the Great White Shark. It follows Space for 2 1/2 pitches before Space moves left onto Mescalito, then it heads more or less straight up independently for ten pitches to the summit. Gerberding was involved in the first ascent. I believe Rick Lovelace made the second ascent solo, but I could be wrong. I seem to recall somebody telling me (or else I heard it) that one of the well-known wall climbing dudes tried to solo it, and bailed after taking a real whipper of a fall, just a huge thing. It might have been Alex Lowe, actually, who bailed after the long fall. He wasn't that high. I'm getting sweaty hands just thinking about it. Unfortunately, it's on my "list". Sheesh.

-- "Pass the Pitons" Pete (peterzabrok@home.com), March 28, 2001.