using M6's to shoot indoors, very low lighting overall, with some people lit by spotights ( Coloured ). How do I approach this situation. Can not use flash, obviously very fast film, any suggestions, both colour and B&W. How far can I push 3200asa and still get good results ( 8000 ). Should I shoot around 125sec and push film, or go below 60sec and not push process. I need to keep good skin tones. Also best filters for fluro lights mixed with daylight for colour neg film. (I will be using 35mmf2 summicron asph & 50mmf1.4 summilux.) Thank you.

-- Bartolomeo (bartolomeo@hotmail.com), May 10, 2001

Answers

The spotlights may produce more light(exposure) than you think. If possible, take a handheld meter reading of that spotlight source. The automatic assumption you will require the fastest film may be wrong. The described scene, interior dimness with bright spotlight is very contrasty adding fast film(increased contrast) will only make the pictures more contrasty. How slow a shutter speed can you hold and get acceptable sharp images? I would choose to use one of the 400 EI negative color films.

-- Steven Alexander (alexpix@worldnet.att.net), May 10, 2001.

Thanks steve. Would colour spots make that much of a difference.

-- Bartolomeo (bartolomeo@hotmail.com), May 10, 2001.

Steven

I find that shooting at night street scenes you will be at 1/60th - 1/125 @ f2 or f2.8 with Delta 3200 or so, this is for shops and, say Times Square in NYC. This will give a good representation of highlights and relatively un-illuminated streets. So I think you might find you had enough light in your situation. I would use black and white, as otherwise you will be really pushing color film and it rarely looks as nice in my opinion. You might indeed be surprised to find the spot lights pretty bright. You will need to spot meter to be accurate, but with Delta 3200 I find it pretty easy to estimate specific exposures once you get a feel of the general lighting level. If the lighting is really low then you can either rate your film higher or you can start shooting at 1/15 or 1/30th. If you are careful lower speeds would work with a 35mm lens or a 50mm. If you take a table tripod you can use it as a chest pod, or even use a wall (this has worked for me on many occasions).

-- Robin Smith (smith_robin@hotmail.com), May 10, 2001.

I have recently dealt fairly successfully with that kind of situation. My solution was using Fujicolor Press 400 at its rated ISO. I did not use a filter, although you could use a tungsten filter with a 2f factor. I found that I could hand hold as low as 1/8 with a 35mm 'cron without any visible effects with the M6. I did, however, meter separately and very carefully.

-- Jean-David Borges (jdborges@home.com), May 10, 2001.

Bartolomeo:

You mention both people lit by colored spots and fluorescent light mixed with daylight, along with keeping good skin tones. This is a tall order! IMO, your best bet is using color print film without filters, and have the skin tones balanced out in the printing. Alternatively, using B&W film would eliminate most of these issues. I recently did a stage shoot with similar lighting charachteristics, and was managing 1/60 @ f2.0 - f2.8 with both color and B&W 400 speed films at 400 (Kodak Porta VC 400 and Delata 400 pro). As for push- processing... I find Delta 3200 to be a true 1600 speed film, so when pushed it tends to block-up fairly rapidly. Kodak Porta 800 is not a bad color film at 800 and is skin-neutral, Kodak MAX 800 is a little more saturated, but neither push well.

-- Jack Flesher (jbflesher@msn.com), May 13, 2001.