For a trad climbing rack, what should I have? Should I buy sets of one kind of cam or should I combine brands? How many of each size do I need? How many should I have?

-- Graham Chadwick (graham@fcs.net), June 19, 2001

Answers

i think it depends on where you'll be climbing and on what sort of rock. personally, i would recommend a starter trad rack to consist of nothing but passive gear--a set of nuts, a set of hexes, and some tri- cams in the smaller sizes.

if you're set on buying cams, though, you might want to mix it up a little. read as many gear reviews as you can. again, it kind of depends on what you're climbing. i guess good 'all-purpose' cams would be the bd camalots (good size range but HEAVY), the wc techical friends, and the the metolius power cams. common sizes to double up on are #1, #2, and #3. you will probably NEVER use the biggest sizes (like the #5 camalot) so don't bother buying. aliens are good for smaller crack sizes. metolius fat cams are supposedly good for soft rock, though i've never used them (and don't climb on soft rock).

if this is your first rack, i suggest relying mainly on passive gear and buying maybe like 3 or 4 cams to start, sizes #1-3. but if you have money to spend, then add a #4 and a couple of smaller cams (smaller than #1). i wouldn't bother with TCU's just yet either. don't double up on anything yet until you get a feel for what sizes you like and use the most.

this is all just personal opinion. ask your friends, and read what others have to say. good luck.

-- michael pang (pangmj@hotmail.com), June 25, 2001.

Mountaineering is gay!

-- Alice Tancred (grooveychick1111@hotmail.com), September 07, 2001.

I'd say buy mostly passive for now. I'd get some small nuts. Some small to medium tri-cams. Some big hex's, and a few Omega Tri-Nuts. Hexs are great for big pro. They're much lighter than big stoppers. The hex's, tri-cams, and tri-nuts all have a nice range and you can make em fix well.

Tri-Cams are just sweet, they're so usefully. Use em passivly, actively, whatever fits.

Tri-Nuts are more flexible than normal nuts, but they weigh a little more and cost more, so it's your call.

If you get some cam's...i'd say get some cams with doubled up spectra slings on em. They're more felxible and come in handy ever now and then. I wouldn't care too much about cam-stops, i don't know anybody that places cam's passivly. But deffinitly buy flexible stemmed cam's.

-- Jim Davis (jmdavis384@aol.com), January 05, 2003.

My suggestion: 2 full sets of abc huveos #1-13 about $60 per set(these are nuts) 1 full set of wild country rockcentrics on dynemma $72 per set(these are hexes) 1 half set of camp tri-cams sizes .5-3.0 $80 1 set of Rock empire cams the 4 cam units not the three cam units about 5 total pieces $150 Total about $400 for the pro

Dont forget to get some over the sholder slings a nut tool quickdraws (I like to triple a 24 inch sling between 2 biners) and also about 20 or more loose caribiners(I like omega pacific dovals nice and light oh and dont forget your going to need two cordelettes or weboletes i have one of each.

Hope this helps thats how I started personally I would wait on the rock empire cams and get everything else first then get the 4 cam units first.

RJC

-- RJC (rclimber03@yahoo.com), July 31, 2003.

I mean get the 4 cam units later and the prices I mentioned are available at www.gearexpress.com please dont think this is spam i am just saying where you can get the prices for the gear I mentioned.

So there you go Good luck RJC

-- RJC (rclimber03@yahoo.com), July 31, 2003.