My 'beefsteak' tomato plants are producing fruit, however, they are starting to get brown spots on the fleshy part of the fruit. There is no evidence of worms or entry hole. The leaves look fine. I live in the San Diego, Ca area

-- Lynn Dowding (Mawson@aol.com), July 01, 2001

Answers

I think that's usually either blossom end rot or a calcium deficiency.

-- Sojourner (notime4@summer.spam), July 01, 2001.

From what I understand is that blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deffiecency. What I do when I transplant my tomato plants is put in a handful of crushed up egg shells in the hole before the plants. Also along with some arkansas tea (chicken crap in water)

-- Russell Hays (rhays@sstelco.com), July 01, 2001.

Hi Lynn. are the brown spots on the bottom of the tomatoes? If so, Russell is right, it's a calcium deficiency, otherwise known as blossom end rot. But the main culprit that causes it, is, sporadic intake of water to the plant. If the plant is not taking up a steady stream of water, the calcium is not then steadily available to the plant. Keep the plants evenly watered, as in, don't let them get REAL dry and then flood them, and it should fix it.

-- Annie (mistletoe@kconline.com), July 01, 2001.

Lynn, wanted to add that the calcium is taken up in the plant through the water and that is why it is important to the plant for a scheduled watering. Hope this helps.

-- Annie (mistletoe@kconline.com), July 01, 2001.

I agree with all of the above, just wanted to add that if the tomatoes touch the ground, this will also cause the rotting problem, which is why it is so important to brace up the plants.

-- xx (xx@xx.com), July 02, 2001.

Here are a few other problems related to the tomato plant.

Blossom drop: Usually caused by dry soils, and drying winds, but may be caused by sudden cold spells, heavy rains, N overdose, or heavy infections by bacteria or fungi.

Blossom end rot: See Calcium deficiency below. End of fruit away from stem gets soft, mushy. Generally caused by a combination of drought and drown water availability, calcium mobilization problems. Cure: mulch to smooth out soil water availability; water in drought periods. See also Calcium deficiency below.

Fruit crack: Surface cracks in fruits near stem end caused by rapid growth during periods of good moisture and high temperatures. Cracks can radiate around stem or encircle "shoulders" of tomato. May vary in depth. No cure, but even moisture (mulch!) will help prevent periods of slow and rapid growth. Pick fruits with rapidly developing cracks early (not fully reddened) to prevent Early Blight and other fruit rots.

Leaf roll: Rolling begins on lower leaves and proceeds upwards until most leaves are affected. Plants may lose leaves, particularly on staked plants. Seems to be caused by heavy pruning or deep, close cultivation.

Sunscald: Occurs when green tomatoes are exposed to sun, most commonly in hot, dry weather on plants with leaf spot diseases or other defoliation.

Boron deficiency: Blackened areas at tip of stem, which is stunted. Abnormally bushy looking plants. Terminal shoots curl, yellow and die. Fruit of severely affected plants may darken and die in patchy patterns. Cure: a handful of borax (not boraxo soap!) worked into the soil around each plant.

Calcium deficiency: Thick woody stems, slow growth, yellow upper leaves (not yellow lower leaves seen in N, P or K deficiency), weak, flabby plants. Blossom end rot of fruit. Cure: Correct Ca/Mg balance, (dolomitic limestone and a little Epsom salts help), mulch to retard plant water fluctuations that seem to bring on blossom end rot.

Copper deficiency: Stunted root and shoot growth, blue-green curled, flabby leaves, few or no flowers. Manure is an easy cure; copper salts can be used with great caution (in too high a quantity, they can kill plants.) Bordeaux mixture applied at fungicidal rates will work.

Iron deficiency: Spotted white areas on new leaves and upper parts of stem. New shoots may die if severely deficient. Apply chelated iron, dried blood, manure, or sewage sludge.

Manganese deficiency: Very slow growth; light green leaves with dead patches ringed in yellow. Few flowers or fruit. Use manure.

Nitrogen deficiency: Very slow growth of plants, followed by progressive pale green color moving from tip and young leaves back to more mature leaves. Leaves are small, thin, perhaps with purple veins. Stems eventually brown and dry off. Flower buds yellow and drop. Apply N immediately.

-- grant (organicgrange@yahoo.com), July 02, 2001.