I don't have room to set up a darkroom right now in my townhouse - but I would like to process and print contact sheets from 120/220 film. I have no idea what equipment I would need or if this is a feasible or recommended idea.

I used to develop and print my 35mm stuff but I haven't done it in 15 years since I was in college... so forgive my rustiness.

I would appreciate a list of what I would need and where I should look for it. Also, what is a good enlarger if I do decide to get one (used)?

Thanks to any and all who help an old 36 year old guy out :-) P.S. - I am a Website editor now for internet.com for their wireless channel if anybody needs any assistance in that area.

-- Matthew Peretz (mperetz@alumni.umich.edu), July 17, 2001

Answers

Everything you did fifteen years ago still works! For the absolute minimalist setup, you'll need a tank to process the film, stainless or plastic, and a few bottles for developer and fixer. If you don't have a dark place to load the film in the tank, you'll also need a changing bag. A photo thermometer and some type of timer are necessary. Couple film clips. Process and wash it in the sink and hang it to dry on the shower rod (not much dust in the average bath). You'll want a bit of wetting agent in the last rinse, and maybe some acetic acid for the stop bath. Contact prints can be made with nothing more than a sheet of glass to hold the negatives flat on the printing paper, and an ordinary light bulb suspended above to give the exposure. You'll need a couple trays. With a good draining, you can probably skip the stop entirely, and go right into the fixer, since you probably won't be making dozens of contact sheets at a time. Personally, I'd still use at least a water stop bath, but that's one more tray! You should be able to get everything you need for about $50 if you shop around. Less, if you find some used items.

-- Conrad Hoffman (choffman@rpa.net), July 18, 2001.

I'd just like to add, get a low wattage globe to make the exposure time long enough that you can time it with fair accuracy. I do this sometimes when I can't be bothered setting up the enlarger and just want a contact sheet. My 60W bulb on the roof gives a exposure less than 2 seconds with the glass/negs/paper sandwich over 2 metres below.

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@unite.com.au), July 18, 2001.

Ok minalists,

I also wonder about that..... Don't you still need a place of darkness? even if you are just making a contact sheet with a light bulb?

doesn't one still have to hide in a closet?

Alex

-- alex siu (alex_s2@yahoo.com), August 08, 2001.

hehe! Alex.. yes a 'place of darkness' is required, but not necessarily involving hiding in a closet! A bathroom works well, put trays in the tub anddo it at night so that whatever you cover the window with doesn't have to be a perfect fit and is easily removable.

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@unite.com.au), August 08, 2001.

Ok I just try this at home. the printing part.

Here's what I got. I did my setup in the laundury room. 4 trays. Dektol(1:2) Stop bath, fixer, wash... I got some vinly sheets to cover the windows. not light prof in the day, but at night It passed the white paper test. an amber safelight and a 25W light bulb.

I then cutted up strips of Kodak PolycontrastIII RC paper and tested it on a strip of negative at different exposure. with the light bulb pointed toward the paper..... way over exposed... then light bulb turned up toward the celing... at various time....from 8sec to 4sec. 5 sec. is the best looking test strip I can get out of the 25W light bulb pointed away.

So after that I was satisfy with the result on this little strip. then I try to make a full sheet w/ all 24 frames on the 8X10. same time. but this time it comes out a little fuzzy(out of focus). The contrast is the same but the image is less defined.

What's my problem? I look up the kodak specs. the quart of Dektol should be able to do 30 sheets of 8x10 and the stop bath and fixer hasn't change color yet. so I don't think is the chemical being exhausted. I would like to try a lower watage bulb, but can't find anything less than 25W at the hardware store that have the big base.

What gives?

>:(

Alex

-- Alex Siu (Alex_s2@yahoo.com), August 13, 2001.

did you take the negatives out of the plastic sleeves and place a piece of glass (like from a picture frame) over them, pressing them aginst the paper? is the paper emulsion side up on the negatives? is the light hitting the paper uniform (not comming from wierd angles)?

these are a few possibilities i came up with, keep trying, you should be able to get this working

joe

-- Joe Holcombe (joe1013_@excite.com), August 13, 2001.

Rather than pointing the bulb away, try moving it back from the paper/neg/glass sandwich. I think you want a point light source. Bouncing the light off other walls might have the light hitting your sheet from all angles.

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@unite.com.au), August 17, 2001.