I would like to try highly diluted HC-110, with TMAX 100, as a compensating developer for N+1, as mentioned in "the Negative".

Does anyone have ball-park times (at 68-70 degrees) for me to start my testing? Adams mentions a 1:30 dilution but I would be happy starting with dilution F (1:19). Unfortunately Eastman does not (at least that I can find) publish times for anything other than dilution B and a couple for A.

Thanks in advance.

-- Robert (t96rlk@yahoo.com), October 09, 2001

Answers

Robert:

Highly diluted HC110 does not work well for N+1 development. For any plus development, I would recommend using 1+7 dilution.

-- Ken Burns (kenburns@twave.net), October 09, 2001.

I think maybe you are looking for n- dev.? check the book again and make sure of what you want--I used to to tmax 100 in hc 110 but don't recall my times. I will have to check and get back to you.

-- mark lindsey (lindseygraves@msn.com), October 09, 2001.

An alternative to reduced development time or highly dilute developers is use of a divided (2-bath) developer, like Divided D76. Photographer's Formulary sells a kit if you don't want to mix from scratch.

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), October 09, 2001.

An alternative to reduced development time or highly dilute developers for compensation is use of a divided (2-bath) developer, like Divided D76. Photographer's Formulary sells a kit if you don't want to mix from scratch.

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), October 09, 2001.

I'm assuming you typed N+1 in error, when you meant N-1. You certainly would not want to dilute a developer for N+ development.

But assuming N- is what you want, diluting your developer is the best way to go. I've found much more pleasing results from going this route, than by simply reducing development times. The later typically does not separate the midrange values well and leaves a rather muddy, dull looking result. Dilute developers compensate, holding down the highlight development, while permitting the midrange and shadow areas to develop more fully.

If you want info on using TMAX films, check out this site: http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/photography/lf/articles/sexton- tmax.html It offers a wealth of useful information of processing TMAX films and N+ and N- development times. Incidentally, John Sexton, who provided the information is Ansel Adams former assistant, and a masterful technician in his own right, so he knows of what he speaks.

Of the Kodak developers, TMAX (roll film ONLY) and TMAX RS (for sheet film or roll film) are favored over HC-110 or D-76. If you are going to the trouble to work out development times, you're probably better off going with TMAX developer instead of HC-110.

If you want a general rule of thumb (and understand I have not tested this specifically with TMAX or HC-110) cut the concentration to 1/2 (example: use 1:15 instead of 1:7 from working stock, not concentrate, of HC-110), reduce agitation to 10-15 sec/3 min, then INCREASE development time by 60%. That will put you in the ballpark for N-1.

-- Ted Kaufman (writercrmp@aol.com), October 10, 2001.

Robert, Contrary to the above posts, you ARE on the right track for T-Max N+1. I have found that weaker dilutions of HC-110 (I use 1:63 from concentrate) give less fogging and more contrast that the standard, stronger dilutions. I could not get a usable N+2 from T-Max 100 until I swithced to this technique: I know it is counter- intuitive, but it does work, and work well. I print with a cold-light head, and my times (for you, a starting point only!) for T-Max 100 in HC-100 are:

N-1 8 minutes

N 11 min. 15 sec.

N+1 15 minutes

N+2 19 min. 30 sec

All for HC-110 diluted 1:63 from the concentrate, not a stock solution. This is for 4x5 inch sheet film developed by hand in trays with an agitation cycle of once through the stack every 60 seconds. If you shoot roll film, these may not be even close.

Note: HC-110 at 1:63 from the thick syrupy concentrate. If you live in Europe, especially France, you can get a different, less concentrated, watery concentrate which is already a 1:2 dilution of the concentrate I use. You will have to exprapolate to arrive at the proper dilutions. The longer times also help promote the formation of edge effects. Hope this helps. ;^D)

-- Doremus Scudder (ScudderLandreth@compuserve.com), October 11, 2001.