A fairly subjective question, I presume, but generally - what gear would you reccomend for an accent of Mont Blanc in late summer (i.e. August - not September because of weather, but not early on to aviod most of the crowds (hopefully!)). Also, does anyone have any idead how much this gear would cost in Chamoix - I plan to buy rather than hire so I can use it again, saves money in the long run! All I've currently got is the clothes (ski jacket, sallopettes, thick jumpers + socks). Thanks.

-- Mark Harris (whoatethepies@btinternet.com), November 14, 2001

Answers

You will be lucky to avoid crowds anytime in August. As well as your clothing you will require an ice axe and crampons and more importantly know how to use them. You do not mention boots but these will have to be suitable for fitting crampons to. A short rope and a harness would also be useful depending upon the experience and make up of your party. These items are definitely cheaper in Chamonix and you will have a much wider choice. If you follow the standard route via the Gouter a helmet is advisable as there is some danger of rockfall while crossing the "death couloir". I don't think the couloir is intrinsically dangerous but parties above knock off rocks from which are funneled down it. Although the route is technically easy it should not be underestimated mainly because of the altitude and changeable conditions. It is also worth bearing in mind that it is a 2 day route. 1 day to the Gouter Hut and a day to the summit and down again. Unless you are very fit I suggest setting off at midnight as you have to be back down to the "Eagles Nest" for about 4:00pm to catch the last train and cable car. The Gouter hut is very popular so you should plan an alternative i.e. either bivi or camp just behind the hut. Although camping is illegal you should not have a problem if you put the tent up on arrival and take it down again and stash it when you set off for the summit. The first time I did Mont Blanc by this route I was amazed to find what was effectively a camp site on the snow fields between the hut and the Dome Du Gouter. I counted 30 tents. Good Luck.

-- Al Randall (al_randall@abbeymeadow.freeserve.co.uk), January 06, 2002.