I routinely print 20x24 prints from medium format and 4x5 using a modified Beseler 45M on a drop table. I use a Nova Trimate (20x24) for processing.

I want to print 40x50 inches. Any ideas on how to process the paper?

My thoughts so far... 1) construct a 50 inch tube from large bore PVC pipe. 2) use a large bore PVC pipe cut in half as a tray and roll the print up before souping it. 3) really, really big trays (unworkable because it takes up too much space

If someone has solved this problem, I'd love to know.

Thanks, Ted W. Simon

-- Ted W. Simon (simonfam@directvinternet.com), February 09, 2002

Answers

There are a few threads discussing this topic in the archives, but it takes awhile to search as they are not categorized. I do recall the predominant idea was to use troughs and work the paper back and forth through the trough. I don't recall if there was a source listed to purchase troughs, (for wallpaper?) but your idea to cut PVC in half sounds ok. A tube to roll prints would also probably work but I wonder if the time it takes to fill and empty would cause any problems with uneven development of the print.

-- James Chinn (JChinn2@dellepro.com), February 09, 2002.

Ted, I have done a bunch of mural size prints from 35 mm by pinning the paper up on the darkroom wall and then projecting the enlarger by tilting the head 90 degrees. As you can imagine, you need to increase the contrast filtration. I developed the paper in a PVC tube. After rolling the paper up in the tube, I would pour the developer in, put the cap on, and roll the tube around for a few minutes. Then I would take the paper out of the tube and roll it open as much as I could on the darkroom sink drainboard, and then pour the developer from the tube over it and sponge it, put it back into the tube and repeat the procedure with the other chemicals. It worked surprisingly well.

I have tried doing smaller prints that way [without taking themn out of the tube during processisng], but just developing in the tube I ran into trouble where the paper rolled back unto itself and the chemistry would not get there.

I was able to do the mural prints by myself. If you can get somebody to help you, I think the trough method would probably work better, although I have not tried it.

chris

-- Christian Harkness (chris.harkness@eudoramail.com), February 09, 2002.

There are specially constructed PVC trays that are long on one side and narrow on the other, approx. 10 inches deep that are used to develop paper rolls (127 cm - 50 inches wide). They are rigid, due to their rims which have the material turned around. The PVC tubes that you are talking about could do the job, but it would lack the stability and depth the special trays have. It's much cheaper, though. The procedure is simple. You roll your paper and dip it in the solution, then start unrolling your roll and making another. When all the paper has gathered in one roll, you start the other way. You continue until all the necessary processing time has elapsed. That way, you won't have any development irregularities. The same thing with the other solutions. In general, you triple the standard processing times (or double, at least) to compensate for the time your paper is not in contact with fresh solution. Washing is difficult, though. I used to do it in a big open tray with a hose (FB paper). If you want to use RC, you shall simplify your life (ang uglify your pictures). The long tanks don't take too much chemistry, you just have to fill them a little (2-3 inches of liquid) and your job shall be done. Other people develop their giant prints with sponges and the dev. in a bucket. Some of them have reached a degree of perfection in this process, where development irregularities are not direclty spottable (under dim lighting). No, I am joking. I have seen prints made that way that are just fine. You just have to have a water draining system in your darkroom floor and a wet suit on. And a snorkel, or the developer fumes shall kill you. I would opt for the first solution.

-- George Papantoniou (papanton@hol.gr), February 10, 2002.

Ted we used to make murals up to 4x8 in-house, and would make bigger ones by tiling them together....we did it using an enlarger turned horizontally & projecting against a home-made easel on an overhead track...the prints were done by hand in 2 kreonite sinks with built-in water panels, recirculating jets and standpipes....the sinks were aboout 4.5 feet by 9 feet long...and we had running boards built along side that placed the sinks at knee level. One was filled up with close to 25 gallons of dektol, the other with that amount of fix. In use, you'd walk the paper back & forth in the developer to agitate, then pull the plug & dump the chemistry, turn on the water jets to rinse and then repeat in the second sink...then back to the first where you'd wash the living crap out of the print all day long....we mostly used Ilfobrom or Kodak Mural paper, but later switched to RC paper. The fiber paper worked best because we wet mounted the prints as well...most of these murals are 25-50 yrs. old now, and they survived okay despite the fact that the processing wasn't exactly up to snuff...I should point out, that a typical exhibit here lasts from 2-5 yrs...when they come down, the majority of the components are salvaged for future uses, and the murals are usually trashed...so an "archival" print is not exactly the aim...but the old prints are lurking in storage areas & hallways everywhere....

We use an Ilford paper processor now, and RC papers though, and will "tile" a mural together if we absolutely have to, but to be honest here--just pay a lab to do this, it's nothing but trouble if you're not set up for it. That said, 40x50 trays can be had...California Stainless is one vendor that comes to mind...they make a 40x48 tray, that has an interior dimension of 41"x 49"....so that's close. Although I suspect most people would just make them out of plastic sheeting and some 2x4s before shelling out the money for a s.s. tray this size. A small wading pool might work as well...or using mops, sponges etc.

FWIW, one of our big print setups right now is similar to yours--an MXT on a custom drop leaf table...but we use the processor, and that's a big help...you can talk about "uglifying" your prints using RC, but if you have to make about a 100 20x24s in a couple of days, you get to love it....

Opinions expressed in this message may not represent the policy of my agency.

-- DK Thompson (kthompson@moh.dcr.state.nc.us), February 13, 2002.

oh yeah, in addition to the wet-suit, having a huge overhead fume hood is a big help too...now we have a 6 foot long stainless steel slot hood ...but the old fume hood that was basically the size of tow 9 foot sinks butted up against each other in an L shape, worked great for all that chemistry...other niceties include concrete floors and floor drains...and access to a safety shower and eye washes....the reason why we quit doing it was it was so wasteful, not to mention a total PIA. Opinions expressed in this message may not represent the policy of my agency.

-- DK Thompson (kthompson@moh.dcr.state.nc.us), February 13, 2002.