A few weeks ago I was offered, and accepted, a one-year job in the President's Office at The American University in Cairo. The chance of a lifetime, I think, since I've never lived abroad and I'm not getting any younger. I also have a very good friend there. I ship out in August, so right now I'm fully engaged in research and planning for this adventure.

Of course, photographing Egypt will be among my chief interests, having recently acquired an M6 TTL, 35 Lux ASPH, 90 "skinny" TeleElmarit, and (as of yesterday) a Voigtlander Heliar 15 for architecture and archeological sites. (A Minilux is my backup and to be used for slides.) A couple of questions for you guys; please chime in with any answers or general advice:

Anyone know of good labs in Cairo? I'm actually thinking of developing my film in my apartment. It's been a while, so I'd like to stick to just one B&W film: Kodak TriX, if it's available.

What kind of film (B&W and color transparency) can I expect to find in Cairo? Regardless of how much I bring over, I'll eventually need to restock once I'm there.

Do I need a full size tripod, or should I just buy a Leica table tripod?

I'm tempted to buy an SF20 flash just to have a "complete" kit, although I'm not sure if it's really necessary. Perhaps I'll just use my Minilux when flash is necessary. Any thoughts here?

Any advice for shooting in the desert? What about camera care and maintenance in hot and dusty conditions? I have a feeling my Leicas will take a beating, which is OK as long as their performance isn't affected.

What other essential gear is lacking in my kit? I wish I could afford another M body, but I'm afraid it's out of the question for now.

Any other thoughts on photography, travel, and life in Egypt and the Middle East are appreciated. You'll no doubt be hearing more from me about this expedition as my departure draws nearer.

-- Luke Dunlap (luked@mail.utexas.edu), May 03, 2002

Answers

Luke- Somewhere in the archives is a tutorial on air travel with film, post 9-11. You don't need a hassle at airports and film can't stand the latest luggage x-rays. I think I would email American University and see if they could post a messasge from you on a bulletin board that would put you in touch with other people there who could answer photography questions. I'd want a full sized tripod and the tabletop. On a once-in-a-lifetime trip, I'd want to use Kodachrome 25 and some AGFA Scala, but I wonder about developing? Can it be done locally? The mailers for those films are most likely good only in USA. How does American U. get its mail? Strictly international, or do they have a setup like the military, where mail comes over on US planes (Domestic Rates)? While over there, I'd see about taking a trip to Jordan, so I could photograph the ancient Edomite city of Petra. Awesome! The SF-20 would be in my kit, along with the usual 2 slaves-- one Midi and one extra wide. You need to get used to the SF-20 before you leave. Slaves won't work with auto flash-- only manual. My biggest mistake with slaves is underestimating how much light they produce. Better to err on the side of having them too far away. I need to get some guide numbers for mine, which are made by the Morris Co., of Chicago. Last I heard, the public was not being admitted inside the Great Pyramid. Bummer! Post some pictures from Egypt. We'd enjoy them.

-- Frank Horn (owlhoot45@hotmail.com), May 04, 2002.

My advise to you Luke- buy a kevlar vest.

-- Phil the strange (philkneen@manx.net), May 04, 2002.

Double apple narguileh tobacco. That'll soon make you forget about Leicas.

-- rob (rob@robertappleby.com), May 04, 2002.

Luke, I truly envy you.

In fact I had the chance to live in Egypt for a year, 12 years back.

A great and wonderful country for its people. Of course, as for photography, there are downsides but this is very minimal.

Cairo is hot and dry, very dusty. You value your M6, keep it in a bag sealed enough. For the film, keeping it in a fridge is not a bad idea. However you will find locally films which have not been kept away from heat. Once again, it's a minimal detail.

Because of the dust, I recommend you choose a minilab with AirCon, check how they dust out their place. You will soon discover that the owner is happy to have a Leicaist in his shop, especially if you keep a low profile. BW is not very developped in Cairo, better use films like XP2 of Ilford or its equivalent of Kodak. Flash is almost of no use, the light is good. Flash is forbidden in cult places often not to disrupt the course of events.

Now, in every day's photography, remember that these people have seen billions of tourists and they might resent your aiming at them (especially young couples or lonely ladies). In the city, keep your camera hidden, never act in haste (Cairo is peaceful what ever some might say).

Of course and you will agree with me, cult places are not to be photographed when in use on friday. Poverty is not to be branded....

Yes, Cairo can be hot in August.....

Enjoy yourself, keep a low profile, be humble and open minded as the Egyptians. Remember when every thing goes wrong: "Malesh", "never mind" in Arabic and keep "cool".

I'm thinking of touring in Syria these days.

-- Xavier d'Alfort (hot_billexf@hotmail.com), May 04, 2002.

i spent 8 months in algeria. socially, it's quite different. hone your as people generally don't like their photo taken, esp. the women, kids ok.

during the month of ramadan, when muslims don't consume anything, at least in sight, during daylight, you should not consume in front of them. water, cig's, food...

-- Steve (leitz_not_leica@hotmail.com), May 04, 2002.

wha happen; it shoulda said: hone your street shooting skills...

-- Steve (leitz_not_leica@hotmail.com), May 04, 2002.

You lucky dog.

-- Marc Williams (mwilliams111313MI@comcast.net), May 04, 2002.

Good for you, Luke. My parents lived in Egypt and we visited them for a few weeks in July 97 (frikkin' hot!). I was still in my naive pre-Leica days and had an FM2 plus three lenses (24, 55micro, 105) in an Orion Mini fanny pack. There are so many tourists at the tourist sites and they all have cameras, so you're not going to be conspicuous in those situations no matter what you have. However, for street shooting in Cairo, you will probably need to baksheesh (tip) any subjects. My wife got the best results in these situations with her Yashica T4 Super with it's right angle finder - usually photographing unnoticed. Some museums and mosques will want you to check your camera at the front door, so if you don't want to do this with your Leica, don't take it.

Always have baksheesh money on hand (25-50 Piastre notes). Always carry water - Baraka, the local bottled water is readily available. Don't eat fresh salads, trust me. When going to the tourist sites, try to get there as early as possible in the morning, before the tour buses arrive. Take a Nile cruise.

-- Ken Geter (kgeter@yahoo.com), May 04, 2002.

Luke: A couple of extra points. First, I would buy a polarizer for your lenses as the desert is a tough place photographically as well as UV filters (the latter should be kept on your lenses at all time). Second, always be very careful when changing film as sand will inexorably get in and jam your M6. Thirdly, crime has skyrocketed, particularly against Americans, so be as low-key as possible. Fourthly, from a medical perspective, should you fall ill, get the hell out of there and head for Haddassah Medical Center in Jerusalem. Egypt's hospitals and private clinics are a disaster area. Have a great time.

-- Albert Knapp MD (albertknappmd@mac.com), May 04, 2002.

Excellent advice from all of you; thank you for your contributions.

Sometime this summer I'm going to set up a weblog so I can keep family and friends up to date (especially my parents). I'll have a photography section so all my Leica friends can see my work.

And, oh yes, Petra is high on my list of destinations. I also want to explore Greece on my vacation days. Needless to say, I'm pretty stoked about the photographic (and other) possibilities. I'll keep you posted over the coming months.

-- Luke Dunlap (luked@mail.utexas.edu), May 04, 2002.

I recommend the flash. I just got one. Nice compact light flash, perfect with the M. I could see myself in a tomb or pyramid, wanting to take a photo with not much light, and getting it with the SF-20.

-- James, Doctoral Candidate, Mathematics *grin* (snodoggydogg@hotmail.com), May 05, 2002.

I visitied Egypt about ten years ago for a photo trip from Cairo to Aswan, down the Nile to Luxor, etc. I had a great time. Lot's of sun, not as much dust and sand as you might think, and film was plentiful; ususally Fuji. It's not clear how much has changed safety- wise since then for the tourist or foreigner. The Egyptian people were hospitable in a "Middle Eastern-way", no hassle except for the occaional "bakeesh". DON'T eat off the streets or imbibe other than bottled drinks regardless of how long you're there. Photo-wise your setup seems fine; if you like rangefinders. Travel light and pay attention to your surroundings.

-- Barbano (joseph.barbano@symmetron.com), May 05, 2002.

sounds like fun. i've lived in 4 different countries during the last 10 years (last 6 in the US). My advice, buy a Voigtlander Bessa R2 as a back up camera. And get insurance. cheers,

-- pat (modlabs@yahoo.com), May 05, 2002.

I spent the month of October 1997, pretty hot and dusty as above stated. Even though I carried more lenses, virtually everything I shot was with a Nikkor 24/2.8. Seemed to work for all the huge temple type things and was very good on the streets and in the bazzars. I did not take any special precautions other than getting a hand check of film at airports. Be sure you get your camera serial numbers recorded on some official document, and be sure you understand how the registration of your passport and issue of visa stamps from the local police works ( I assume your friend will be meeting your flight and assisting you on your arrival.) As a first overseas trip, you are in for a bit of culture shock!

Have a great time!

-- Jim Lemmons (jlemmons@specialtylens.com), May 06, 2002.