I've recently switched to fiber paper from RC and want to build a drying rack. I've read that the prints should be laid face down on a screen to minimize curl. Does it matter what type of screen I use (aluminum or plastic)? I wondered if the aluminum would react with the silver in the print? I'd appreciate any advice.

-- Brenda Frezeman (bbrend@aol.com), May 21, 2002

Answers

You want to use plastic or nylon screens, not metal. I have had a problem drying prints face down on screens. I always get an imprint of the screen on the surface of the print.

-- Ed Farmer (photography2k@hotmail.com), May 21, 2002.

Brenda,

Nylon screens are best. They are easy to wash and less likely to scratch the paper's emulsion.

I stretched mine on the frames artists use to stretch canvas, and stapled it with a staple gun.

Make sure to squeegee the prints before placing them on the screens. If your prints are really soaked after washing, they might pick up the impressions from the screens. This happened to me once. Try steaming the print over a tea kettle if the impressions don't come out when you drymount the print.

-- Dave Karp (davekarp@ix.netcom.com), May 21, 2002.

if you squeegee them there will be no problem with drying them face up.

-- r (ricardospanks1@yahoo.com), May 21, 2002.

Ricardo,

Do you stack your screens on the bottom of your swimming pool, or hang them from the diving board?

--JJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJJimmmmmmmm

-- Jim Rock (jameswrock@aol.com), May 21, 2002.

Hi Brenda, Use plastic, nylon, or fiberglass screens fastened with staple gun. I suggest screen dimension slightly greater than 20x32 which will enable you to dry 2 16x20 prints on one screen. Squeegee print on both sides, back followed by front and dry them face down to minmize curl. Flatten them after screen dry with the clubs dry mount press. I have never had impressions left on face of my prints in last 20 years. Later, John

-- John Elder (celder2162@aol.com), May 21, 2002.

Brenda,

I too just began using fiber based paper. I went to Home Depot and found pre-made aluminum framed fiberglass screens in a variety of sizes. For an 18x24 inch screen I paid something less than 3 bucks a piece. I bought 6, built some tracks with moulding in a narrow hallway so that the screens can sit in the tracks overhead. Works fine. Screens can be removed easily for washing in the shower.

And very cheap!

Cheers,

RR

-- Robb Reed (Reed@nhrc.navy.mil), May 22, 2002.

All the above answers are right on. I've seen some set-ups with nylon screen mounted on roller-blind spools. These were then wall-mounted and stretched out when needed, retracted when not. A good space- saver. I use 22x34 inch screens spaced about 1 inch apart with 2 inch wood blocks with grooves cut in them to fit the screen frame on every other screen. The narrow spacing slows the drying time but helps prevent the prints from curling too much.

One caution about drying prints face-down. If you tone your prints (selenium, sepia at least) drying them face down can result in screen impressions on the print surface. These manifest themselves as less- dense or discolored areas in the pattern of the screen. I am not sure why this happens, but it does, even with thoroughly washed prints and clean screens. Therefore, I advise drying face-up. Also, to avoid contamination, dry only completely washed prints on your drying screens and rinse them occasionally with a weak chlorine bleach solution followed by a thorough water rinse.

Regards, ;^D)

-- Doremus Scudder (ScudderLandreth@compuserve.com), May 25, 2002.