Hi all;

After some years of bigwall and waterfall climbing, I want to try my hand at alpine. I've got some straightforward north face snow/ice slopes in mind, with the crux being either getting across the bergshrund or the cornice at the top. Question is, what the heck to you do if you come up and there's a 12-foot slab of cornice blocking your way? Go around, tunnel through...? And is it safe to be climbing under cornices anyway? Thanks!

-- Luc (lbouchet@ucalgary.ca), July 29, 2002

Answers

If a 12-foot cornice is blocking the way, it is not a "straightforward north face". Often you can scope out the cornices from below and avoid climbing under them (it is generally quite hazardous to climb under big cornices). Tunnelling through a cornice is sometimes required on difficult routes but they are generally to be avoided.

-- George Bell (gibell@attbi.com), July 31, 2002.